We were there for 48 hours and here’s a scrunched itinerary for those of you on a tight schedule.
First, don’t go in the winter unless you’re interested in experiencing the wild tsunami that glides off of the Atlantic and Larry, Moe + Curly slaps into your face. After my first walk along the pier by the world’s largest fiddle, I couldn’t move my mouth to speak proper. This is not an exaggeration.
Lucky that balancing out this exhausting cold is the warmth of the Cape Bretoners** who occupy the City. Everyone says hello, and everyone smiles at you. EVERY.ONE. It is so very lovely to be greeted with smiles at every turn, and like a true City girl, I wonder what the murder/suicide rate is.
On Friday morning, my boss/colleague/friend/I-don’t-know-what-to-call-him-exactly-just-yet and I jumped into a cab at 6.30am and made our way out to the closest lighthouse, which was an approximate half an hour out of Sydney, and to be found in the neighbouring town of “New Victoria.”
Sitting at the tip of Sydney Harbour, she seduces all manner of sailor to shore. I had never seen a lighthouse up close and personal, and so tried to open her door because who wouldn’t?, only it was locked. Sad and dejected I circled the base willing her to open to me. She did not. I froze my face. I returned to the car.
But not before I went down by the water and took this gorgeous photo which makes me wonder if this is some sort of a plank from which Cape Bretoners chuck the bad people.
Sidebar: Though we had hoped to watch the sun rise, Sydney was expecting a storm and so all we saw were rolling burbling clouds. That said, I strongly encourage that you make your way here to watch the day break over the Atlantic on a clear day.
On the way back into the City, we stopped at Fort Petrie where the ground is covered by these beautiful skeletons of a particular flower (anyone know what it is?), and something else which checked my gag reflex. Claws! Or legs! Of cockroaches of the ocean!
We then went on to see lobster traps, before having a lovely and full day at work. Must admit that I was a little panicked I would find lobster feet/claws/toes/fingernails/I-don’t-know-what-to-call-them-either, in the traps. Luckily, there were none, though I would later have nightmares that I had dinner while a lobster sat next to me, staring.
That same evening, I popped over to the world’s largest fiddle. For a while, I was convinced that I was at the wrong place, because I only saw a massive violin, with no fiddle in view. Lucky for me, my other colleague is v smart, and explained: it is the same instrument, but called a fiddle when used to play jerky music. (I am the one who calls it “jerky,” not her. Because I am not a fan of jigging.) I took photos but accidentally deleted them, because apart from my phobia of cockroaches of the ocean, I am a little brain addled.
After dinner that evening, I cozied down by the window to enjoy the storm, before heading out the next day. Here I am trying to say goodbye while on the Sydney Boardwalk, and failing because the wind was far too strong for my parka…
All in all. A super trip I would strongly recommend for a little bit of summer fun.
Additional must eats + sees:
– Anything and everything at the Allegro Grill.
– Pop by the Cape Breton Fudge Co., grab some fudge and a coffee before making your way down to the violin masquerading as a fiddle. The gent at the shop wouldn’t let me pay for my fudge, surely because I was verging on hysterical when I saw their selection.
– Buy something at the Cape Breton Curiosity Shop.
– Marvel at the number of evening gown dress shoppes along Charlotte Street (and try to get yourself invited to wherever it is that these Haligonians party).
– Have the grilled + chilled shrimp at the Governors [sic] Pub & Eatery.
– Take a walk through the neighbourhood situated across Esplanade from the fiddle.
– Have a latte at The Bean Bank Cafe, but only if you sit in either the Don Cherry room or the piano room (where you must play).
…then, make certain to come back and let me know how much fun you had.
P.S. Dear K + F, who took the time to paint the base of the lighthouse: I hope that you will live happily ever after.
———-
** Because Janey is from Halifax, and Halifax is the center of the Nova Scotian community for me, I was calling Cape Bretoner’s “Haligonians” until Ben put me straight.
Dear Cape Bretoners,
Please don’t issue a fatwa against me for this now corrected mistake.
Thank you. Love you.
M
Dearest Maha: Paragraph two had me ROFL. You would be, by far, my #1 pick for a sightseeing buddy..anywhere. But in the aforementioned tundra, our continuing laughing faces would freeze in place, so looking attractive would not be an option. You’re a riot & one crazy canuck. Nova Scotia+Winter=fking freezing cold. So glad you packed your parka.
Also, I have been enjoying your beautiful daily pictures so much. I totally can relate to the ice cunundrum tale…I’ve been there many times. BTW, you are truly v v “special” and I would tell it to your face, anyones face and shout it to the entire World. Hugsies, Maureen
By Haligonians you mean people from Halifax, right?
Yes sir!
Maritimers — the friendliest people you’ll ever meet!
I thought you were in Sydney?
Absolutely, Karolyn!
Ben — I was. This is Sydney, Nova Scotia (and the lighthouse is in New Victoria, about 30 minutes out of Sydney).
I actually snorted out loud at this “and like a true City girl, I wonder what the murder/suicide rate is.”
Love the light house pix! Thank you! I agree with Maureen :o)
Hugs,
Maria
That’s what i thought. So where do the Haligonians come in? Haligonians = Halifax folk. People from Cape Breton are Cape Bretoners. I was reading your blog and I thought that perhaps you were referring to Cape Bretoners as Haligonions, which is a mega-taboo; capers never want to be confused with mainlanders.
Mistakes I have made in the past. π
Really?? I used to call *everyone* from Nova Scotia a Halifaxian…and then I was told there was no such thing, but that they are in fact: Haligonians. So I just kept it up, like a bona fide loser. I am going to fix this right now! Thanks, Ben!! π
Fixed + footnoted!
My dad was born in North Sydney, and as a kid I spent a lot of time on Cape Breton at my great-grandfather’s cottage near the Margaree River. Beautiful. I haven’t been there for about 15 years…
Man, are you cool. I felt like an ass the second I wrote it; like a social media call-out. Totally not my intention. Back when we were in grade 11 at BHS, Jason Ings came to us for one year from Sydney when he came to live with his dad. We have been best friends ever since. Over the last 20 years I have traveled to CB countless times for golf, drinking and good ole CB hospitality! All my NS “knowledge” comes from being drunk off my ass too many times out there that I can even recall!!!
Karolyn — I had no idea! I hope you get out there to visit soon, with your beautiful family π
Ben — Sounds like many a bad next morning! No worries about the pointer…I very much appreciate being told I am a dolt (nicely, which is exactly what you did). Thank you!
Bad mornings??? You have no idea. For the record, you are not a dolt.
I found it rather funny there’s a Sydney and a New Victoria in Canada. Is the state of just-plainly-called Victoria not good enough for you New Victoria? π
I can safely say I won’t be visiting Sydney in the winter, because well if YOU, person lives some place that it snows tells me not to go there, I sure am avoiding that place in winter time.
you are just as busy as usual.. not sure how you keep up! I am not a fan of the area but started to like it from your description π
I am in Ottawa. sent you an email. can we meet? no Blackberry yet so email me.
BB
I was right, it did make me homesick….mostly because you’re writing is so good and the pictures captured the Atlantic so beautifully.
Love you loads.
xo
Verging on hysterical about the fudge selection…. Perfect! Fudge it what makes living worthwhile – especially in Cape Breton in winter.
Not McG’s momma is from Cape Breton – and the family members that visited for our wedding are my FAVORITE PEOPLE ON EARTH – they are truly lovely people up there.
Hope your face has thawed.
MAUREEN!! Thank you for your super super super kind words!! I would gladly welcome you as a travel buddy, too. I often think that my only purpose in traveling is to find the little nuances of heaven on earth. I am happy you enjoyed the read, and hear you on the ice sitch. We are tonight going to have flash freezing here. Aces. STAY WARM!! xxo
Love you + thank you, Maria.
Infant — Just like “Nova Scotia” (which, if I recall correctly, actually refers to: New Scotland). You should visit it here once in the winter, to say you lived to tell about it π
BB — hi hi hi! I would love to go back in the summer, to feel its natural warmth and dip my feet in its waters. Loved seeing you x
Baby Jane — love you too. Sorry it made you homesick…but I understand. Sending you Ottawa warmth.
Kimmer! How much do I love that your Not McG is of Canadian blood (something like that?) and a Cape Bretoner to boot?? YES!!! They ARE the most amazing and warm and friendly and engaging for sure. Loved everyone I met! You know what? I betchu his momma is super funny, and you were partially drawn to his sense of humour, right? Canadians are hella funny. Hella! Funny!
xxo
Did a family road trip to the East coast a few summers back including Nova Scotia. Best. Trip. Ever. We all still talk about it!
Hi !
I’ve never been to Nova Scotia.. But I love your photos from your trip. I especially love the pier, very very much. The lighthouse, love too. You must at sometime find your way up into a lighthouse, any lighthouse.
I love climbing lighthouses and have found my way inside many along the East Coast during vacations over the years (sadly, before the age of digital photos). There is such a quaintness about them.
Loved reading of your trip pretty lady!
Hugs !
M, are there t-shirts, “I survived Nova Scotia?” π If there are t-shirts I could be persuaded. π
Sari — I would love to head back out there in the summer, and we may in fact have to do just that for work. I imagine it’s gorgeous π
lb — I am so jellis that you have been inside of a lighthouse, and I will do my damndest (I do not know how to spell this word!) to do so myself. Have you ever read “LightHouse Keeping”? — add it to your list if not. And happy you enjoyed the trip report and photos!
Infant — Hah! I will look next time!